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Antique Tractor Pictures - Parts and Pieces

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JD #43 Corn Sheller - I know the belt (B79 from NAPA) is not routed correctly on the pulleys -- just thought Id mention it in case some sheller purists wanted to comment.
JD #43 Corn Sheller
Ford N-Series Tractor Oil Filter Housing - This is the gasket/washer that goes underneath the clamp bolt on the oil filter housing of all N-Series tractors and beyond. The original part number is O1A-6749 and is still a good number with the Ford Tractor suppliers today, Case/New Holland. It is made of a composite fiber material and measures 57/64 OD; 29/64 ID; and 5/64
Ford N-Series Tractor Oil Filter Housing
1947 Case Model S Rear Tire Valve - I need one of these and can
1947 Case Model S Rear Tire Valve
Case Dealership Tool Box -
Case Dealership Tool Box
1925-1930S - My grandpa owned a Case Dealership and a 1929 Case L Tractor.  I believe this tool box is mostly for a sleeve puller and the wrench is to remove the hubcap/bearing cover.
1925-1930S
1958  Case 800 -
1958 Case 800
1938 F20 - Installed a Case 188 diesel in the old girl.
1938 F20
Case Wheel -  This case wheel came on Farmall fast hitch plow I bought. What would it originally been used for. Silvertown 4;00 x 12 tire
Case Wheel
49 DC Case - Brake Cross Section - Here is a cross section of a 40s vintage DC Case brake.     Several things are noteworthy for adjusting endplay in the shaft     1.  Looking at the differential in the middle, there is no thrust bearing between the big drive gear and the two spider gear on the shaft.  Thus, a high preload should be avoided.  Shoot for no preload and no endplay.    2.  Each side has a shim pack.  I would adjust on the side with the thickest shim pack if there is an obvious difference in thickness.  However, both the big gear and the chain drives are tolerant of some side to side misalignment so no need for the two shim packs to be exactly the same thickness.     3.  To do the adjustment, I completely remove one shim pack and first assemble the bearing support without the shim pack. Uniformly snug up the bolts to about 5 to 10 percent tight.  Using a feeler gage,  check the gap where shims belong at about 3 or 4 places around.  Tweak the bolts until the gap is even all around.  If there is no gap,  shims will also have to be taken out of the other side.    4.  At the same time the bolts are being snugged up and also to do the job right,  both bearings on the shaft should be rotated a little.  This allows all rollers within the two tapered roller bearing to move into their running position which is against the flange on the inner race of the bearing. Unfortunately, both rear tires need to be off the ground to do this because turning each tire rotates only one of the tapered roller bearings  While turning a tire with the bolts snugged, one can put their ear to the roller bearing and listen for any roughness within the bearing.    5. Install a shim pack that is the thickness of the gap.
49 DC Case
Brake Cross Section

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